(Comments on 2007): A smoky sweet pungency marks the nose of the Alzinger 2007 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal, which saturates the palate with ripe musk melon and honeydew. Notes of blond tobacco, high-toned herbal essences, inner-mouth floral perfume, and wood smoke remind one of the extent to which this site imprints its wines, and to which one might in this instance easily imagine a Gruner Veltliner to be in one’s glass. The sense of cool refreshment here defies the wine’s site-typical (and perhaps marginally botrytis-reinforced) pungency, and here is another instance in this collection of remarkable sheer extract sweetness (as the analysis says “dry,” but your palate doesn’t entirely). The kaleidoscopic range of finishing savor cannot be captured with other than mineral vocabulary (and even then, not); it is stunning. If this wine doesn’t cause you to act like Pavlov’s pooch, I suspect none ever will.
Stephen Tanzer 93/100
Pale green-yellow. Inviting aromas of peach, subtle meadow blossom, a hint of orange and pleasant spicy minerality. Taut and high-strung, with a smooth spine of lemony acidity allowing the stone fruit flavors to dance on the palate. Intense apricot, mango and peach flavors linger impressively on the finish. Lovely finesse here.